Fantasy vs. Reality

February 6, 2008

You’ve seen those pleasant photos of cows frolicking in a green pasture surrounded by shade trees, pigs wallowing in cool mud, a rooster crowing on a rail fence, or salmon jumping in a pristine stream. While such pastoral scenes are depicted on packages, cartons and labels of meat, milk, and eggs, unfortunately those are completely bogus…just so much hype by multi-national corporations posing as “family farmers”.

The reality is that the milk you drink from those cartons comes from thousands of cows crammed into mega-dairies where the cows never see green grass, much less frolic in it. They spend their days and nights on concrete.

Ham, bacon, and pork chops in supermarket cases come from hogs that, from the time they are born to the time when the bell tolls, are raised in conjunction with thousands of other hogs in metal buildings, where, every now and then, the feces and urine under the slatted floor are flushed into giant cess pits.
The packages of chicken legs and thighs purchased in the grocery store or in that “Eight-piece box” are hacked from the carcasses of birds that are no more than 7 weeks old.

The carton of eggs sold in supermarkets comes from chickens raised in such tight spaces they can’t even turn around and when those poor hens are no longer productive (by industry standards) they become chicken soup or are thrown in a dumpster. MOARK is now owned by Land O’ Lakes and the bottom line takes precedent over all else.

The hamburger sold in supermarkets and fast-food joints is composed of the meat from hundreds of cows, and likely a dash of E. Coli (due to the speed of the “disassembly” lines).

The salmon fillet in meat cases or braised in upscale restaurants likely came from a “fish farm” in British Columbia, where Atlantic salmon are reared in the Pacific Ocean, in secluded bays, by the hundreds of thousands in cages suspended above the marine waters (and the salmon are laced with PCBs)
These realities don’t make pretty pictures, however, and are not the ones featured on supermarket packages.

Reality doesn’t sell. Fantasy does.

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Whether it is the continual gut-wrenching stench from thousands of hogs, contamination of drinking water from thousands of cows or a few thousand broken eggs, or dangerous working conditions in slaughterhouses and packing plants, the realities of the factory-like production of meat, milk and eggs mean that the products sold and consumed are quite likely unsafe and unhealthy.

“Wild” Atlantic Salmon are listed by the US Department of the Interior as an endangered species and cannot be “taken” (killed, caught, captured, eaten) under any circumstances. But, it is perfectly legal to raise these creatures by the thousands in the Georgia Straits, between Vancouver Island and British Columbia, where the seafloor is polluted, escaped Atlantic salmon threaten native stocks, and the fish end up with flesh and fat contaminated with PCBs (polychlorinated bi-phenyls, related to dioxin).

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Officers of agribusiness corporations make enormous amounts of money in selling consumers such fabrications. For example, Chris Policinski, the current CEO of Land O’ Lakes, made a bit over $859,000 in 2005, probably a bit more this past year. If Fortune 500 company Land O’ Lakes meets quarterly projections, he has done well; if not, he needs to update his resume. But, how much he makes and whether or not he keeps his job, depends not a whit on how well MOARK – a Land O’ Lakes egglaying operation - protects the environment of southwest Missouri nor whether or not a hungry child is fed in India. While corporations such as Land O’ Lakes like to refer to “externalization of costs”, what really happens is that land, air, and water get polluted, family farmers get run out of business, the rural economy tanks, slaughterhouse workers get dehumanized and seriously injured, and the meat, milk, and eggs we eat are tasteless and possibly harmful.

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However, there are better ways.

There are those who “do it right”: who farm in sustainable, non-polluting ways, who contribute to their community, and produce healthy and tasteful foods.
These sources are readily available throughout the United States. There are farmers’ markets and for-profit outlets for locally-produced food. In addition, most chain supermarkets now carry organic, free-range, and locally-produced meat, milk, and eggs.

As Wendell Berry famously stated: “Eating is an agricultural act.” Brother David Andrews – formerly the Executive Director of the National Catholic Rural Life Conference - took this one step further, declaring, “Eating is a moral act.”

We need to support those who haven’t subscribed to the corporate mantra of profit at the expense of everything else. We need to support diversified, sustainable family farms and with our pocketbooks and our forks.

In short, we need to treat eating as an agricultural and moral act.